The beauty industry does not sleep and with the advancement of technology there are always new cosmetics. Promising miraculous results, some conquer space in the aesthetic market and become, in a short time, fever among self-care lovers. The darling of the moment is hyaluronic acid, which has been present in products such as facial serum, anti-aging cream, body moisturizer and even sunscreens.
The name doesn’t even seem like it, but hyaluronic acid is practically ubiquitous, it is naturally part of our body and has several functions: it acts as a moisturizer, helps maintain skin elasticity, smoothness and prevents premature aging.
Despite the hype around the product, little is actually known about it and how it should be used. Vogue then spoke with dermatologist Monalisa Nunes, who runs the Dermavegan clinic, to talk about the myths and truths of hyaluronic acid.
First, what is hyaluronic acid?
Produced naturally in our body (skin, joints and eyeball), most of the hyaluronic acid (56%) is in the skin and despite “working miracles” for some, the substance is not composed of great mysteries. In short, “it is a large sugar molecule, soluble in water with humectant properties, that is, water retention”, explains Dr. Monalisa.
What is hyaluronic acid for in our body (and in cosmetics)?
“For its viscous texture and moisturizing properties, it keeps the skin hydrated and firm, the joints lubricated, the eyeball balanced. Over time, we decrease the production of hyaluronic acid, so cosmetics help us keep the skin hydrated, fight wrinkles, stimulate collagen, etc.
Who needs hyaluronic acid?
Nowadays there is no correct date to start taking care of yourself. However, you must be careful to use the correct products for your age group, avoiding health damage and, of course, unnecessary expenses. Asked who needs hyaluronic acid, Dr. Monalisa takes a cautious stance. “Need is a very strong word, nobody needs anything of an aesthetic nature. But it would be recommended from the moment our natural production starts to decline, around 30. But this can vary depending on skin type, genetics, habits, among other factors”, he explains.
What does a person need to analyze before using a product with hyaluronic acid?
Among the factors that can harm you in the search for a younger and healthier appearance, is the lack of focus. For it is very important to pay attention to the validity of the product you are purchasing, because if it is expired, the expected result is not achieved. “[It is essential to note] the validity of the product and other components of the formula since hyaluronic acid itself is biocompatible, so there is no risk of allergies or incompatibility”, she points out, noting that the product usually does not generate reactions.
Is medical follow-up necessary?
As much as buying directly at the pharmacy is an easier way, many cosmetic products have chemicals that can cause damage if not used with medical advice. Ask about it, the specialist lectures. “It is not necessary to follow up, only if the chosen product has more than hydrating properties, that is, it has more actives besides hyaluronic acid that need greater care”.
What are the real benefits of hyaluronic acid? (speaking of dermocosmetic)
If you always wonder about the real benefits of HA and have difficulty believing in labels and their miraculous results, the Dr says that the only possible points to achieve with this product are: “Hydration and smoothing of fine lines”.
Are there any harms in using hyaluronic acid? Is there a right age to start using it?
To these two questions, Monalisa answers in the negative, pointing out that hyaluronic acid is a biocompatible product — that is, it prevents allergic reactions — and that, as previously mentioned, each one should use it according to their need, a question that depends on genetics, collagen decline, habits, among other points.
Nowadays there are many dermocosmetics with hyaluronic acid, can they generate results as good as procedures in which it is injected?
Versatile, there is a range of procedures that can be done with hyaluronic acid, some invasive, others only with the use of dermocosmetics. About this, the doctor rejects the rumors that dermocosmetics can generate the same result as injectable HA. “It doesn’t [has the same effect], injectable hyaluronic acid is completely different from topical hyaluronic acid that is diluted in water. The injectable HA is pure, it is dense, it serves to fill specific and punctual areas, not to be applied to the entire face, for example”, he explains.
Are there any myths about hyaluronic acid that people often reproduce?
As it is difficult to control what is real or false on the internet, many rumors have been created with the hype of hyaluronic acid. Prepared, Monalisa assures her. “Usually people think that because it is an acid, the product has skin renewing properties or that it burns, but this is a myth”.
